Leaving

I leave tomorrow to return home to Oregon. I am a bit sad--I could have easily spent a few more weeks here with my sister. If you've been following this blog, you may want to go back to the beginning, because I'm adding posts on the dates they happened. So there might be some new ones that say they're older than ones I posted previously, because the last time we were at the internet we had very little time and I didn't get very much done.

We haven't been able to get mail the last 3 weeks. There wasn't any for 2 weeks, and the post office wasn't open on Monday before we left for El Pino. So, I hope nobody tried to send me any letters, because I didn't get any of them! If any arrive for me in the next few weeks, my sister will perhaps mail them back to me in the U.S, and I'll get them in another 4 weeks...

Here's what I AM looking forward to about going home:

clean, comfortable bathrooms
consistent internet access
no mosquitoes
a soft bed

a visit to the neighbors, for real

Today we honestly did go visit the neighbors! This time, we walked down the road and through Lencho's property (and past the unattended cows that were milling around at the entrance, both inside and outside the gate). We had a nice conversation with Maria Elena, the young woman--and , shock of all shocks, I actually did most of the talking! When she was at our house on Wednesday she had promised that she would give us some milk if we came by in the morning, which she did--fresh cow milk is a treat for us! And so we took her some lemongrass in return. Suyapa, the real woman of the house, appeared a little later and gave us some fresh eggs, too.

And we walked home by way of the creek. I was glad to discover that the place where we had given up and turned around last time was not right around the bend from them! It was about 1/3 of the way back. In one spot, a large tree had been cut down and fallen into and across the creek, filling the canyon. With all the rain and high water we've had, it was full of branches, sticks, and foliage so as to make the creek completely impassable. We had to clumb up the hillside ato go around it. All the while being very careful not to break the eggs or drop the bottle of milk... But we made it! In the end though, we decided that even though it seems more direct to go by way of the creek, it's not any faster and it's certainly much more difficult! Future trips by Prairie and Beth will probably be made by way of Lencho's.

Plaga!

The problem with the nice comfortable weather we've been having is that it brings out the mosquitoes. Here, having a lot of mosquitoes around is called a "plaga"--a plague. It's a pretty accurate description! It's been going on ever since the rain started, which have now thankfully restricted themselves to the nighttime. The daytime mosquitoes are larger and leave big blotchy bites, itchier than the evening mosquitoes. They have replaced the no-see-ums and biting flies, which seem to like the hotter, drier weather. I am getting eaten alive, despite wearing long pants and shirt and bug repellent...

A couple of our neighbors came by to visit this afternoon--a young man and woman. She was very amused by the idea that I would be covered with mosquito bites when I return home.

I spent the rest of the day hiding under my mosquito net.

Monday, Monday

Well, it was another predictably unpredictable Monday! We waffled about whether or not to go because of the rain last night and the lingering clouds this morning, but go we did. It was a fast and easy walk, being so cool. Another calm morning at Centro de Salud, so we left at 11. Took a walk along the beach on our way to check the mail (there wasn't any again). We went to Sor Leonarda's house (she runs an orphanage) because she had received a bunch of medicines from the U.S. and didn't know what they were. So we identified and labeled them. She gave us grape fruit and granola bars, which I was very thankful for, it being close to lunchtime! Then, she showed us a tub that had bathroom products in it, which we helped identify too--shampoo, hair spray, body wash, etc. When we finished, we started to say goodbye, but then she remembered she had a letter to send that she wanted us to translate into English. So, we did that, too. By the time we left, it was 1:15! Talk about being hungry! And we still had shopping to do.

Finally, we were able to sit down and eat our lunch while we waited for a bus or jalón. Someone Prairie knew saw us on his way into town and said he'd come pick us up on his way out again, which sounded like it was going to be soon, so we waited. and waited. some other people came by and waited, too. But at 3 o'clock, we knew we had to leave because if the jalón or a bus didn't show up, it would take us at least 2 hours to walk home. So we left. And after a few minutes, a jalón picked us up! We got a ride all the way to our desvío--hooray! There, we ran into two men with horses who were on their way home beyond La Fortuna. They offered to put our backpacks on one of the horses, and they also gave us each an ear of elote! We could see that clouds were gathering again in the hills, and it cooled off nicely during our walk. We got home probably around 4:30 or 5, which means that the men weren't going to get home for at least another 3 hours. They were calling home on their cell phones to find out what the weather was doing--I can only imaging that it must have been a wet trip...

The morning after

Even clouds need their rest.

The morning after a hard rain,
exhausted,
you can see them
taking naps
on the hillsides.
__

There's something so spirit-filled about the morning, la mañana, after a rainstorm. It's tranquila, open; the birds sing in the silence. Calm, peace, and new life, along with celebration, hope. It's the best thing about the rain.

More rain

It rained again today. But it was warm and dry enough in the morning to wash our clothes and bathe in the creek. The rain started in the late morning, and we were totally disoriented about the time from that point forward--and we seem to have been way off, as it was already pitch black when we started cooking dinner. This afternoon, we made candles! That was a fun project; a good rainy day activity. We made a couple jar candles, and four dip candles. Those ones took forever! But I didn't mind--it was warm and cozy and peaceful in the kitchen. And dry. So we ate dinner in the kitchen, too--why not? It was rather enjoyable! But I'd be perfectly happy if the rain decides it's done now and doesn't come back tomorrow. One day of darkness and indoor confinement is enough for me...

Francisco's

Today we decided to visit Francisco's family. They live a two hours' walk up & down the road from us. You can see their property from the monastery--a high hill with a lone tree at the top. The walk there wasn't too bad, although we went the wrong direction at their turn off. Aparrently they could see us, so one of the boys came and found us and redirected us toward their house. When we first arrived, Santos Emilia served us some "leche con cornflakes"--hot fresh cow's milk, a bowl of cornflakes, and sugar of course. I was hungry, so I was thankful, even though it was hot! We spent a lot of time just watching her cook, as that's pretty much all she did while we were there (she does have at least 10 mouths to feed!). It was a little awkward to just be sitting around, not really knowing what to say or do--but there were children, chickens and pigs to be distracted by. By the late morning, we were feeling useless and perhaps in the way, so we asked if we should leave--but no! Santos had sent one of the boys to get some elote to send home with us, and didn't we want to wait for that? Well, of course! So we had a reason to stay. And she fed us lunch--what a lunch! Eggs, rice, beans with culantro, yame (which is kind of a mix between a potato and yucca), and fresh maseca tortillas. And to top it off, a cup of café con leche. It was all delicious. And besides the corn, she also gave us a couple pounds of beans and some cuajada (fresh cheese) to bring home! I am always amazed at how generous people, especially rural people, are.

Another Monday

Oh Mondays--you never know what to expect; they're always different. Last week was pretty straightforward, and we walked home again with Santos Emilia (Francisco's wife) and two of her sons, a 14-month old and a 13-year old. They even came in to the monastery for a bit and did afternoon prayers with us.

This morning, Orvín, the 13-year old showed up at our house as we were getting ready to leave in order to gift us with some tamalitos de elote (fresh corn) from his mom! Since we were about ready to go, he waited for us and then we all walked to Chito's together. Well, he rode his horse. Upon arriving, Chito informed us that we were tempranitas today--earlier than usual. Then we checked in at the neighbors' (who happen to be Chito's in-laws), and were gifted with a slice of watermelon! A delicious treat.

A few minutes after we started walking down the road to Limón, a nice young man who Prairie knew stopped to give us a lift in his pick-up. He and his wife have a new baby, and when Prairie asked him how he was, he just glowed with adoration and wonder and responded "es lindo, es muy lindo" (lindo=beautiful/sweet/precious). Obviously the first child of a proud daddy.

It was another slow day at the Centro, and there wasn't any mail (because of the rain?), and then we had lots of shopping to do. And it was HOT! We bought some frozen milk malt drinks for the walk home, one strawberry, one vanilla-flavored. They taste like of like milkshakes. Yummy! As we were preparing to leave town and find a place to eat our lunch, a man came up to us who knew Prairie and offered to give us a ride! So off we went in his rattly little car with its flat tire...He took us about a third of the way down (up) our desvío--yay! And we were glad he stopped, because we're not sure his car would have made it much farther down that road! We were home between 1 and 2 -- about the time we've been left Limón the other weeks! I definitely prefer getting back early and having a relaxed afternoon. It was a good day.

Rain: A metaphor

It rained and poured.
And on the first day
we rejoiced!
for the water had been scarce
the tank almost empty.
We felt the Spirit
falling on us
like the rain
filling us
Our cup was filled to overflowing!

On the second day,
we appreciated the sunshine,
but our revelry was
interrupted
the rain was not finished with us yet.
But we bore with it,
glad that it was watering
the parched earth
and our new seeds.

On the third day
we woke to dark skies.
The sun was nowhere to be found.
We lost all sense of time
as the day stretched on.
The rain came back with a vengeance
pounding on the roof
lashing at the walls
begging for admission
Despair set in
(But our reservoir is full now
we can hold no more!
we have what we need,
you're job is done.)
Frustration
(Please, go away.
enough is enough!
I am tired of your endless
insistence.)
Resignation
(We'll go inside
and not come out
until you have gone.)

In the night,
we look up to the heavens
and they are filled with
stars!
The morning dawns bright,
peaceful, gentle
filled with birdsong.
The Spirit shines on us
like the sun.

It is the Sabbath.

Rain rain rain rain rain!

Thursday, 28 Feb.

After one of the hottest days ever, we are now plagued with the coldest day ever! Yesterday evening, Prairie noticed that the wind was blowing in from the north, which is usually an indication of a cold front that brings rain. And she was right! The wind and rain begain in the early morning and has only let up for a few brief moments all day. You can't even sit on the porch without getting wet, we we've mostly stayed inside. Even then, the wind blows the rain in through the gaps in the windows, walls, and roof. It's so chilly and damp that I've been wearing long pants all day and wrapped a big towel around my shoulders. Our water tank, which was almost empty, is now completely full and overflowing, and it keeps raining!

Friday, 29 Feb.

Sunshine is such a relief after a day of solid rain. Who would have guessed, after the heat we experienced on Wednesday! It was a very comfortable morning, with a mix of sun and clouds. But then it started raining again in the late afternoon...

Saturday, 1 March.

More rain?! Sigh. I actually like the cooler days when there is some rain, but I don't enjoy when all day or even half the day is just solid rain. We did laundry this morning, which was kind of a joke--had to hang the clothes inside; wonder how many days it will take them to dry? With the heavy clouds, we really had no idea what time it was, so dinner ended up being really late--we were cooking in the dark by the light of the lantern and a flashlight! I am ready for another hot sunshiney day!

Bonito

What a day! I am completely worn out, my body is just exhausted from all the walking we did and I have a headache. We were up early and walked to Chito & Rosa's to catch a bus to Bonito Oriental (aka Carbonales) -- but despite how early we thought we were, we didn't get there until about 9:45. Went to the bank first, then dropped some mail off, then did some shopping. First, vegetables. Then Prairie remembered she needed to buy pens, so we did that. And I remembered we needed a new ax handle, so we did that. Then cheese and fruit. Finally we made it to the internet around 11 or so. Prairie wanted us to catch the noon bus out of town because we had to stop in Limón before going back to the monastery. And with a slow computer, I didn't get nearly as much done on the internet as I'd hoped. Oh well. When the bus came (more like 12:30), Prairie flagged it down while I paid at the internet café and then walked straight out the door and onto the bus! We got lucky that it was one of the few buses that actually goes all the way into Limón rather than stopping at the end of the 4km turnoff. It was the dustiest bus ride ever! And so long... I had to cover my mouth and nose with a damp hanky just so I could breathe.

We were only in Limón for about a half an hour, and then we headed out, this time walking the whole way to Chito & Rosa's -- no jalóns today. We rested there for a while and ate our oranges, then continued on our way to our desvío. By now it was somewhere around 4pm, which meant we wouldn't get home until around 5. A pickup truck passed us and waved a greeting, but didn't stop, and Prairie lamented because it was someone she knew, and he was going in our direction, probably down our desvío. Well, when we got to the desvío, he was returning from it and stopped to apologize for not giving us a ride, but that he had been hauling trash and wasn't going to make us sit among the trash bags! We kept walking. But a few minutes later, we heard a car again, and it was him! Coming back to pick us up! He must have found it in his heart after all. I was SO grateful!!! He took us almost all the way to where the quebrada crosses the road, about 3/4 of the way to the monastery. I was so hot and tired, I think I would have expired on the way back if we hadn't gotten that jalón...

The butterfly

Through the streaked layer of dirt
on the thick window
of the bus,
Against a wall
of green foliage
laden with dust,
There soars a butterfly.

Not even the grit
and dinginess
of its surroundings
can dull
its bright orange
radiance.

"The light shines in the darkness, and the darkness has not overcome it" (John 1:5)

Quebrada hike

"quebrada" means "creek." it also means "broken."

Today, Prairie decided it would be a good idea to visit the neighbors and take them our chicken-feed corn. And we figured it was closer to go by way of the creek than through Lencho's property. So, we set out. Well, as it turns out, there is a Y in the creek, and as you can guess, we didn't know which way to go! The barbed wire fence ran across it, and we decided to stay on "our" side of the fence. But after a while, we felt like we were getting farther away from where we thought their house was (although we didn't honestly know quite where we were!). And then the creek turned it what really seemed like the wrong direction. Hm. So, we went back to the Y and went the other way. It was even worse! The creek was smaller and the banks were muddier and steeper. The whole time we were clambering over logs and roots and hacking our way through the branches and other vegetation. We gave up when the way became impossible -- impassible.

We hadn't gotten very far on our way back when my toe caught on a stalk of grass laying across the ground --ouch! Got a nice little slice across the front of the big toe on my right foot. Well, that make the hike back a bit less enjoyable, and definitely more urgent. Luckily, it's not very deep, but it still stung! And there was still lots of grass, mud, and branches to go through to get back. I was thankful every chance I had to walk in the water. So my toe now has a nice little bandage on it. Prairie was smart and had worn her rubber boots, but we hadn't expected the trail to be so difficult! That is to say, we had thought there would more of a trail...Next time, we'll go through Lencho's and maybe come back by the creek. Maybe not...

Moonglow

Lat night, I looked up and saw a tree that was sparkling. It looked like there were little balls of light resting on its branches and leaves! Like fireflies, only they didn't blink; they swayed with the breeze. And I realized that it was droplets of light from the moon! Glorious.

waiting and walking

People do a lot of waiting around here. waiting for buses, for jalóns, for anything to happen... Today we waited around outside of Andrés's store for maybe an hour, along with about 20 other people. Just waiting. I watched two drunk men stagger around and then sit down on a bench together. Finally, we decided to begin walking, joined by Francisco's family again--his wife Santos Emilia and a few of their children. One of the drunk men kind of tagged along with us, and when a bus finally did come by, he got on, too. When I made a comment about the "drunk guy" to Prairie, she informed me that it was Francisco himself! I could barely believe it. He was almost completely unrecognizable to me. It's rather depressing, and makes me feel sorry for his wife and children (there are 8 of them!) who have to deal with a husband and father who gets drunk every time he goes to town. Luckily, I don't think they make the trip into town very often...

Seeds

Yesterday morning, we planted some seed bags and pots. 3 tomatoes, 3 peppers, some sage, basil, and coriander. It was a very satisfying activity. I enjoy simple gardening, working with creation. And it was something that could be started and finished in one sitting, involved a variety of tasks, and used a different part of the brain than, say, reading. And, it will (hopefully) bear edible results! It just felt good.

Cookies, Corn, and Cards

Feliz cumpleaños, Pradera! Today was Prairie's 26th birthday.

We did some gardening around the house this morning--I transplanted some lemongrass. But, for most of the morning, and most of the rest of the day, I was sorting corn. The corn we bought in Tocoa the other week was pretty bad--I spent the day crushing weevils and picking out kernels that had holes in them (where the weevils like to hang out). Hopefully now though the corn won't get much worse, since the majority of the bugs are out.

After lunch I brought out the gifts for Prairie--dried apricots, a chocolate-espresso bar, and a deck of cards. Yay. At dinner time, I got to make molasses crinkles! This being rural Honduras, they were a little different than what you might be used to. We had no shortening, just oil. And no brown sugar, just a form of solidified molasses called rapadura. But they came out just fine! Mmm, mmm!

In the evening, we played cards in the lamplight. It rained for a while, so hard that we could barely hear each other talk! The only interesting game we could remember was Rummy 500. I won by 300 points...

Grapefruit and chicken feet

Another long Monday, but a good day. And, it rained last night--finally! hooray. It is so loud when it rains hard--it kept me awake, along with my needed to go pee...

It was a slow day at Centro de Salud, but at the one moment when someone actually showed up with a prescription to be filled, Prairie wasn't in the room, and I was expected to do it! I felt so helpless--I couldn't read the doctor's handwriting to know what the medicines or dosage instructions were, I didn't know where to find them on the shelf, and I couldn't rip the tape to make the labels. Sigh. But I survived.

After getting our mail, we went to visit Gloria, a good friend of Prairie and Beth's. She fed us grapefruit! What a treat! We don't get much of that around here. And then she gave us lunch. I wasn't very interested in the "sopa de pato" (chicken-foot soup), so I had mostly broth with vegetables. Prairie gave me one of her chicken toes to try...it was enough.

On the way home, we walked with a family--a father (Francisco) and three older children--who live about 2 hours farther down the road to La Fortuna from us.

Swinging with God

Here's a poem I wrote in El Pino after watching a young girl on a swing:

It only takes a few pumps of the legs
and arms
and then you're off.

Sometimes,
when you're small,
a push from a parent helps.
sometimes all it takes is a friend
your same age.

Arms, legs, and body working together,
you ride higher
and begin to soar.

Then, you can relax into the rhythm
and enjoy your flight
on the wings of the spirit.

When you descend,
calmly
back to solid ground
and dismount--
perhaps with a leap of joy--
your life goes on
and the swing stays behind,
swaying
waiting to carry its next soul
to freedom.

back to the mountain

so now it's back to the mountain with my sister. while Beth was here, I kind of felt like I was in a holding pattern, waiting for her leave so my experience could really begin. For the first 2 weeks it was mostly just me following their lead, tagging along--which felt appropriate, but I was getting tired of it. the dynamic will be very different with her gone, with just my sister and I. I'm looking forward to it, and hope we can get along without getting sick of each other for the next 6 weeks! We'll be back in town in a few weeks and I'll write more updates then. For now, you can look at my pictures on facebook: http://stolaf.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2037363&l=d5e68&id=40401366